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| Shinji, Hali (Tanekura) - Japan 2024 |
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| Drying Seeds (Tanekura) - Japan 2024 |
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| Tour Group (Tanekura) - Japan 2024 |
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| Waiting Outside Sakakami Station - Japan 2024 |
"Tanekura is a small village nestled in the Japanese Alps. It is a perfect example of 'satoyama' culture, where man does not encroach on nature but lives in harmony with it.
"Only sixteen people live in this village, from forestry, agriculture and inherited customs of past generations. They grow buckwheat, rice, herbs, edible plants and Japanese ginger called myoga."
Margaret and Jim were able to stay in Tanekura in 2023 - they liked it a lot, so we decided that we would pay a visit during our 2024 trip. It's a 40 minute train ride to Sakakami Station from Takayama. We got off the train and spent some time looking around for our reserved taxi. Alas, it was nowhere to be found. Very quiet, though!
After a bit, Shinji, the Tanekura Inn manager, drove up with our ride. (Taxi miscommunication, apparently.) After a short drive featuring a number of switchbacks, we arrived in Tanekura, the surrounding mountains very photogenic.
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| Fence, Mountains, Clouds (Tanekura) - Japan 2024 |
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| River from Train - Japan 2024 |
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| Fields, Houses, Clouds - Japan 2024 |
Some photos taken from the Hida Express train from Nagoya to Takayama.
We last visited Takayama in 2016. We were supposed to go there in 2023, but typhoon-related weather canceled that idea.
This time our plan was to use Takayama as a base for a couple of side trips. We located our hotel pretty easily, walking there luggage free! (We had used a luggage forwarding service to ship our suitcases from Tokyo to Takayama. Worked perfectly . . . would recommend for any future Japan trips.)
Walking to our hotel we couldn't help but notice the crowds jamming into the main tourist streets in town. But we weren't surprised. After a Family Mart dinner we went for a short walk in the evening after the crowds thinned out.
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| Night Street (Takayama) - Japan 2024 |
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| God Bless Butter (Tokyo) - Japan 2024 |
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| Buildings from Train (Tokyo) - Japan 2024 |
From Tokyo to Takayama: first take a local train to Tokyo Station, then wander around looking at all the food vendors to find a suitable bento box for the train to Nagoya.
Then scramble to board the shinkansen, the track for which we somehow couldn't find until the last moment. Highlight of the train ride: a hazy view of Mt. Fuji from the seats on the right hand side.
Then get off at Nagoya for the transfer to Takayama.
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| Mt. Fuji - Japan 2024 |
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| Gyoza Sakaba Yoshi (Tokyo) - Japan 2024 |
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| Gyoza Sakaba Yoshi Menu (Tokyo) - Japan 2024 |
We had walked around this area back in 2016. From my notes that year:
We check out, store luggage at the hotel, then walk over to visit the Koishikawa garden with Dan. Nice. Afterwards a stroll among the streets surrounding Suidobashi station. Lots of restaurants! Alas, we won't be able to try any of them. We need a longer stay!
So, we made it a point to return to the same restaurant district in 2024! Wow! I managed to locate where we had last seen all those restaurants; after wandering around a bit we spied a gyoza restaurant and decided to give it a try.
"At Gyoza Sakaba Yoshi, we offer a wide variety of gyoza and dishes made with homemade care. Our gyoza, made with Japanese pork, is served hot and fresh. Enjoy 22 different types, including fried and boiled options. We also have unique dishes like 'Spicy Beef Stew' made in authentic Sichuan style. With great course options available, relax in our modern and bright space, perfect for solo diners or group gatherings!"
This was certainly an out of the way place, but they had an English menu and a place for us to sit towards the back. We placed our order, I got a beer, and then we started to check out the atmosphere. A number of longish tables had been pushed together in order to accommodate a large group of raucous college-age students. Lots of jokes! And singing! And, unfortunately a number of them were smoking cigarettes.
Our order arrived . . . actually pretty good! But we decided not to prolong our stay. (Cigarette smoke certainly hastened our departure.)
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| Gyozas (Tokyo) - Japan 2024 |
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| Gyoza Sakaba Customers (Tokyo) - Japan 2024 |
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| Itoya Entrance (Tokyo) - Japan 2024 |
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| Akihabara Station Ad (Tokyo) - Japan 2024 |
November 4th, 2024. Breakfast at Starbucks, then, at Margaret's request, a shopping expedition to Itoya.
"Dating back to 1904, Itoya is an institution like few others in Tokyo and one of the city’s most beautiful and well stocked stationary shops. The main branch, situated on Ginza’s busy main street, is spread over two buildings and 18 floors in total, offering anything from pens, paints, craft materials, canvases, paper, cards, travel gear, two cafes and even a greenhouse."
We took the Yamanote Line to the Yurakucho Station, passing through Akihabara, then, using Google Maps directions, walked through the Ginza's heavily crowded streets to finally reach Itoya. I guess as could be expected, Itoya was itself heavily crowded. But we were able to buy Margaret's readers for her, and had an unexpectedly pleasant lunch on the top floor.
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| Itoya Lunch (Tokyo) - Japan 2024 |
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| Suidobashi Station Train Passing Through - Japan 2024 |
That evening we walked under the Suidobashi Station train tracks for a dinner at Katsukichi.
"Patronised by literary greats like Yasunari Kawabata and Yukio Mishima, Suidobashi's Katsukichi has remained largely the same since first opening its doors in 1962. The heavy-set wooden interior evokes memories of days gone by, but the menu has managed to hang with the times: fried in corn and sesame oil, the tonkatsu is made with fine, freshly sourced meat and feels about as light as a deep-fried dish possibly can be."
Very nice!
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| Katsukichi Interior (Tokyo) - Japan 2024 |
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| Katsukichi Meal (Tokyo) - Japan 2024 |
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| Leaves, Ferns (Chiba) - Japan 2024 |
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| Trees, Leaves (Chiba) - Japan 2024 |
We walked back to the train station after our lunch at Kurashow past some lush, overgrown areas. The station was so tiny that I had to ask for directions at the local 7-11; once there I did some cat viewing and Hali was able to talk with some of the locals using Jim's Pocketalk.
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| Walking Back (Chiba) - Japan 2024 |
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| Kurashow Owners (Chiba) - Japan 2024 |
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| Gourds, Kurashow (Chiba) - Japan 2024 |
Once again, we had a delectable dining experience at Kurashow. The restaurant's new location feels airy and spacious in spite of its actual (small) size. Lots of artistic touches as well!
OK, so the lady's name is Yoko, but somehow I still haven't managed to find out the chef's name.
Maybe someone can research that for me.
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| Kurashow Lunch (Chiba) - Japan 2024 |
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| Beer at Kurashow (Chiba) - Japan 2024 |
We'd eaten before at Kurashow, but that was when the restaurant was in Otaki. Of course we wanted to dine there again, but now they've relocated to a different area in Chiba. Getting there by train was just a little convoluted! It certainly helped that Yoko met us at Takataki Station and gave us a ride over to the restaurant.
As usual, the lunch was quite tasty, plus Mike was able to sample a local beer!
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| Rice Paddy (Chiba) - Japan 2024 |
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| Takataki Station Sign (Chiba) - Japan 2024 |
We took the antiquated Kominato train to the Takataki Station, passing by rice paddies and other rural sights.
Wikipedia has a succinct description of the station: "Takataki Station has a single side platform serving bidirectional traffic. The overgrown ruins of an opposing side platform remain. There is a small station building with a waiting room, but with no ticket gate."
For some reason I didn't take a photograph of the overall station, so I have to rely on the next photo found on the internet. Don't know who took it, but thanks!
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| Takataki Station |
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| Kominato Railway (Chiba) - Japan 2024 |
We wanted to return to Kurashow restaurant for lunch. We've been there twice and really enjoyed our meals there, but they're no longer at their old location. It turned out to be quite a journey from our Tokyo hotel to Kurashow, now located in a semi-rural part of Chiba Prefecture.
We got help from Mr Yoshihoto Minagawa whose family lives in Chiba . . . he was able to figure out the necessary train schedules and wrote them out for us. Quite helpful!
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| Train Schedule to Takataki Station - Japan 2024 |
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| Rain, Alleyway (Tokyo) - Japan 2024 |
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| Rain, 7-11 (Tokyo) - Japan 2024 |
We walked past deserted alleyways, skipped going into 7-11, and finally found a pretty nice grocery store that wasn't on Google Maps. When we got back to the hotel Hali was able to fashion a nice serviceable salad! And Mike could sample the beer he had purchased at the Hakodate Airport.
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| Groceries (Tokyo) - Japan 2024 |
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| Hokkaido Beer (Tokyo) - Japan 2024 |