Japan: Culinary Adventures (2): Sumiyoshi-ya

As well as being a peaceful interlude in our busy schedule, Sumiyoshi-ya Ryokan also provided us with one of our best meals. When Mie set an overloaded tray onto the table I wondered at the variety and artistry of the food. Then she set an identical second overloaded tray onto the table.

Then it was that I understood I had to gear up for some serious eating.

Of particular interest was the sashimi offering shown above, with gold and silver leaf decorations. Everything was, of course, incredibly fresh.

Photos: Sumiyoshi-ya Sushi—Kanazawa, 2008; Mie Serving, Hali Seated—Kanazawa, 2008

Kanazawa

While in Kanazawa we visited the famous Kenrokuen garden, one of Japan’s "three most beautiful gardens." The garden is certainly large, with many paths winding through it. It’s surrounded on all sides by the city, resembling many large city parks in that respect. Photographically I was stymied by the too-bright sunlight for most of our visit, finding this garden wall off in one unnoticed corner.

After the garden we made our way over to the Higashi geisha district: no geishas, but lots of school kids drawing the antique buildings in the district.

Kanazawa was a study in contrasts. The guidebooks had led us to expect a kind of small town Kyoto: gardens and geishas. The reality is that Kanazawa is a bustling city, with traffic, mass transit and all that entails.

Photos: Garden Wall & Pine Tree—Kanazawa, 2008; School Kids Drawing—Kanazawa, 2008; Purchasing Lottery Ticket—Kanazawa, 2008

Ryokan

In Kanazawa we stayed at a traditional ryokan—Sumiyoshiya Ryokan. Very esthetic and peaceful. At night the wonderfully competent Mie would not only set up the futons and quilts but would also help us adjust the air conditioner’s (Japanese language only) remote control!

Much nicer than my 1966 ryokan.

Photos: Sumiyoshiya Interior—Kanazawa, 2008; Mie & Futons—Kanazawa, 2008

Train Travel in Japan

We had gotten the Japan Rail travel pass before leaving the U.S., since almost all travel destinations in Japan are accessible by a highly developed passenger rail system. I’m a long-time train buff, so to me this was just great.

We had reserved seats for most of our trips, obtained in advance from the JR ticket office. (These transactions were simple enough not to require any of my rudimentary Japanese.)

So, reserved seats, yes. But where on the station platform was our assigned car going to arrive? Another continuously vexing problem, since each train station seemed to have its own method of displaying this information. Sometimes, much running back and forth, suitcases in tow.

Once on board, I’d stare continuously out the window where fleeting compositions would appear, then vanish: a man walking down a country lane, an isolated graveyard in the midst of October fields.

Photos: Man Walking—Japan, 2008; Graveyard—Japan, 2008; Train Platform—Nagoya, 2008

Election Day!

Yes, the mikereport does sometimes recognize current events.

Japan: Culinary Adventures (1): Negi

Negi means onion in Japanese; Negi is also the name of a restaurant in Kyoto. This is where we had our first dinner.

Shawna recalls the following dishes in our meal:

Grilled Vegetables - Onion, Leeks, Eggplant, Mushrooms served with dipping salt and miso paste
Grilled Fish with shaved white radish
Chicken Meat balls served with a sweet sauce and green onions
Melt-in-your-mouth beef - almost like a short rib dish

A box of scallions accompanied the meal.

The food was, in fact, excellent. And it was here that I first discovered how well Japanese beer goes with Japanese food.

Shawna and Maz had been here before and had described the dining experience to us in detail. So the most interesting thing to me was experiencing reality: standing in front of a place halfway around the world that had heretofore only existed in my imagination, and then walking through the entrance.

Photos: Negi Exterior—Kyoto, 2008; Scallions, Negi—Kyoto, 2008

Ginkaku-ji

We were able to visit the famous Ginkaku-ji in north-east Kyoto. The hotel gave us a sketchy map showing the correct intersection for the bus stop and the number of the bus. As usual, there were numerous comic moments of uncertainty (is this the correct bus stop? is this the correct bus? is this where we get off? how much do we pay?) since all notices were in Japanese.

Successfully navigating the bus system, we finally arrived.

As an interesting ironic touch the temple’s crowning architectural glory, the Silver Pavilion, was shut down for reconstructive work. In addition, the light was not the best—sunlight filtered through trees creating very harsh contrast.

Of course, the garden itself was exquisite.

Photos: Front Courtyard, Ginkaku-ji—Kyoto, 2008; Sunlight & Trees, Ginkaku-ji—Kyoto, 2008

Jizo Shrines

I heard the bells before I saw them, following the sound across the courtyard of Zozo-ji, a Buddhist temple in Tokyo. There they were, lining a shady path: dozens of small statues of infants, each wearing a red crocheted cap and a red cloth bib, each with a bright-colored pinwheel spinning merrily in the breeze. Some had stone vases beside them filled with flowers or smoking sticks of incense. A few were surrounded by juice boxes or sweets. A cap had slipped off one tiny head. Before replacing it, I stroked the bald stone skull, which felt surprisingly like a newborn's.

The statues were offerings to Jizo, a bodhisattva, or enlightened being, who (among other tasks) watches over miscarried and aborted fetuses. With their hands clasped in prayer, their closed eyes and serene faces, they are both child and monk, both human and deity. I had seen Jizo shrines many times before. They're all over Japan, festive and not a little creepy. But this was different. I hadn't come as a tourist. I was here as a supplicant, my purse filled with toys, ready to make an offering on behalf of my own lost dream.

—Peggy Orenstein, "Mourning My Miscarriage," April 21, 2002, New York Times.

You can read the full article here.

Photos: Jizo Shrine in Rain—Kyoto, 2008; Jizo Shrine with Caps—Kyoto, 2008

Aki no Ame

Literally, "rain of Autumn."

Of course, as we all know, Autumn is the most poetic of seasons, especially in Japan. The steady drip of rain in the narrow lanes of Gion, the glimpse of a maiko making her way through the town on some mid-day errand—these things have a timeless quality which would require more than words or pictures to convey.

Perhaps a haiku by Basho would do it.

Photos: Rainy Street—Kyoto, 2008; Narrow Lane, Gion—Kyoto, 2008

Journalism vs Art

Yes, there were times during our trip that we found Japan to be crowded and noisy. Yes, the initial arrival at the Kansai International Airport in Osaka was confusing, what with currency changing, railroad passes and the like. Luckily, Shawna and Maz are old Japan hands. Come to think of it, I guess that I’m an old Japan hand too.

Yes, the streets of Kyoto could be crowed and noisy, with ubiquitous motor scooters and mini-trucks zipping down extremely narrow streets.

But I have chosen to create my own Japan, a Japan of cloistered gardens, quiet waterfalls, bamboo groves and Zen temples.

Of course, the cyberspace version of Japan is mighty cool, as well . . .

Photos: Kansai Airport—Osaka, 2008; Street Scene—Kyoto, 2008

That Kyoto Mystique

Walking though the narrow byways and alleys of Kyoto peering at the enigmatic facades.

Then, entering though the noren curtains a world of enveloping warmth and intimacy.

Photos: Green Noren—Kyoto, 2008; Negi Interior—Kyoto, 2008

Night Train to Kyoto

Arriving in Osaka three hours late under a darkening sky.

Still yet to do: negotiate Japanese customs, exchange money and secure the rail pass. Then find and board the train to Kyoto.

Once aboard the train, random glimpses seen through the fog of jet lag: a multi-colored ferris wheel, McDonalds, "Slot" (?), massive apartment buildings, enigmatic billboards, pachinko parlors, two people talking on a balcony.

Finally, pulling into Kyoto Station at 9:35 PM.

Photo: Billboards—Japan, 2008

. . . from the archives #29: Branch & Granite—Sierra Nevada, 1990

Directions: Highway 50 going towards Tahoe, turn right at Kyburz, thence to the Silver Creek campground.

Yes, there are quite a few Silver Creeks in the Sierra Nevada.

Photo: Branch & Granite—Sierra Nevada, 1990

Farewell to Hawai’i

As Mike gazed out the window he took in the random cloud patterns and the vast expanse of the Pacific. Seen from the incredible altitude attained by the airplane the clouds and ocean seemed to be on the verge of relinquishing some great philosophical insight. A metaphor for . . .

But then the light dimmed, the sky went dark and the lights of the Bay Area loomed in the distance.

Photo: Return Flight—Pacific Ocean, 2007

Culinary Adventures (2)

We participated in a "vanilla luncheon" at the Hawaiian Vanilla Company (north of Hilo.) Some of the dishes, admittedly, had very little vanilla in them. The vanilla lemonade was very refreshing! Afterwards a lecture on vanilla by the owner.

On our way back, a lot of highway repair stoppages. And so it was that I was able to grab the above shot of grass and eucalyptus out the car window.

Photos: Vanilla Company—Hawai’i, 2007; Grass & Eucalyptus—Hawai’i, 2007

Culinary Adventures

Café 100 is known far and wide for their loco moco. But I don’t think I ordered it. I have to say, not very memorable foodwise but heavy on local atmosphere.

Malasadas are Portuguese-derived dough confections deep-fried beignet style. Quite nice.

Photos: Loco Moco, Café 100—Hawai’i, 2007; Malasadas—Hawai’i, 2007

Volcano

As we drove through the rain the road steadily climbed and the air grew chill. Wisps of fog began to trail across the highway. We finally reached the small town of Volcano and located our rental cottage. Once inside we set out some leftover orchids from the wedding dinner the night before.

Next day dawned damp but rainless: an excellent day for a hike through a still-steaming crater in nearby Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park.

Photos: Orchids in Cottage Window—Hawai’i, 2007; Hali in Crater—Hawai’i, 2007

Kona Lua Rain

As we stopped at a fruit stand on our way to Volcano the rain gradually picked up in intensity.

Photo: Kona Lua Rain—Hawai'i, 2007

Manago Hotel

On the way to Volcano we stopped to take a look at the Manago Hotel.

We didn’t stay there, but Shawna’s friend Jenny did. Her report wasn’t all that complimentary.

Photo: TV Room, Manago Hotel—Hawai’i, 2007

Wedding

The wedding was held on a manicured strip of land with the Pacific on one side and one of the Mauna Lani’s fish ponds on the other. During the ceremony fish kept leaping out of the pond (in celebration, I’m sure.)

Afterwards . . . mai tais for all, including the pleased brand-new in-laws.

And of course the most important thing—photographs taken by the skilled Autumn Burke, intent on capturing that extremely romantic Hawaiian sunset light.


Later that night, an exquisite reception dinner at the Mauna Lani, with Mike giving a little talk in English and Japanese.

Photos: Fish Pond, Mauna Lani—Hawai’i, 2007; Drinking Mai-Tais—Hawai’i, 2007; Shawna & Maz & Autumn Burke—Hawai’i, 2007