Kamikochi Morning - 1

Pond, Trees, Mountains (Kamikochi) - Japan  2024

Pond, Reflections (Kamikochi) - Japan  2024

We clambered down the slope leading to Taisho Pond (lots of photographers!) and managed to follow the lead of several hikers as we set off through the valley.

Bus Ride to Kamikochi

View from Bus - Japan  2024

Bus in Tunnel - Japan  2024

"Kamikōchi (上高地, Upper Highlands) is a remote mountainous highland valley within the Hida Mountains range, in the western region of Nagano Prefecture, Japan.

"It has been preserved in its natural state within Chūbu-Sangaku National Park. It is designated as one of Japan's National Cultural Assets, on the list of Special Natural Monuments and Special Places of Scenic Beauty. It is sometimes referred to as the 'Japanese Yosemite Valley,' although it is considerably smaller than its Californian counterpart."

After arriving in Takayama after our Tanekura excursion we wandered around the town and ended up having dinner at a nice Hida beef restaurant. But most importantly, we purchased tickets for the next day's 7AM bus to Kamikochi, which had been on our to-do list for quite some time.

Even though we got to the bus depot early there was already a surprisingly long line waiting to board. Luckily, a second bus soon appeared and we got on. We transferred to a dedicated park bus and after a short ride got off at Taisho Pond.

Hiking Down to Taisho Pond (Kamikochi) - Japan  2024

Tanekura Morning

Autumn Mountains (Tanekura) - Japan  2024

Breakfast (Tanekura) - Japan  2024

I got up and wandered around outside viewing the colorful autumn hillsides and the rain-caused mist.

Then, a nourishing breakfast in the inn and a taxi ride back to the Sakakami station for the train back to Takayama.

Train Arriving, Sakakami Station - Japan  2024

Monday Eastern Spot-Billed Duck Blogging

Eastern Spot-Billed Ducks (Takayama) - Japan  2024

As seen in Takayama's Miyagawa River. They've been on the blog before, so it was pretty easy for me to ID the birds.

Tanekura Evening

Tofu (Tanekura) - Japan  2024

Dessert (Tanekura) - Japan  2024

Shinji prepared our dinner over an interior charcoal BBQ pit! Tofu, fish, vegetables, sake and dessert.

(Side note: somehow the photos that I took of the Tanekura Inn's interior weren't that interesting. I need to work on my foreign correspondent skill set.)

Our futon beds were quite comfortable, plus it rained quite heavily during the night. Very relaxing sound.

Tanekura Inn Room (Tanekura) - Japan  2024

 

Tanekura Tour

Shinji, Hali (Tanekura) - Japan  2024

Drying Seeds (Tanekura) - Japan  2024

 A chilly Autumn afternoon. Shinji led us on a short tour around Tanekura, viewing crops, a seed storage shed and other agricultural sights.

Tour Group (Tanekura) - Japan  2024

Tanekura Sightems - 2

Gingko Tree (Tanekura) - Japan  2024

Shrines (Tanekura) - Japan  2024

That was the only gingko tree in the vicinity. We didn't find out that much about the shrines, but they looked to be well-tended.

Tanekura Sightems - 1

Porch (Tanekura) - Japan  2024

Shed, Mountains, Clouds (Tanekura) - Japan  2024

Photos taken as we wandered around the area. Very quiet and peaceful. 

Building, Rice Paddies, Clouds (Tanekura) - Japan  2024

Tanekura

Waiting Outside Sakakami Station - Japan  2024

"Tanekura is a small village nestled in the Japanese Alps. It is a perfect example of 'satoyama' culture, where man does not encroach on nature but lives in harmony with it.

"Only sixteen people live in this village, from forestry, agriculture and inherited customs of past generations. They grow buckwheat, rice, herbs, edible plants and Japanese ginger called myoga."

Margaret and Jim were able to stay in Tanekura in 2023 - they liked it a lot, so we decided that we would pay a visit during our 2024 trip. It's a 40 minute train ride to Sakakami Station from Takayama. We got off the train and spent some time looking around for our reserved taxi. Alas, it was nowhere to be found. Very quiet, though! 

After a bit, Shinji, the Tanekura Inn manager, drove up with our ride. (Taxi miscommunication, apparently.) After a short drive featuring a number of switchbacks, we arrived in Tanekura, the surrounding mountains very photogenic.

Fence, Mountains, Clouds (Tanekura) - Japan  2024

Hida Express to Takayama

River from Train - Japan  2024

Fields, Houses, Clouds - Japan  2024

Some photos taken from the Hida Express train from Nagoya to Takayama.

We last visited Takayama in 2016. We were supposed to go there in 2023, but typhoon-related weather canceled that idea.

This time our plan was to use Takayama as a base for a couple of side trips. We located our hotel pretty easily, walking there luggage free! (We had used a luggage forwarding service to ship our suitcases from Tokyo to Takayama. Worked perfectly . . . would recommend for any future Japan trips.)

Walking to our hotel we couldn't help but notice the crowds jamming into the main tourist streets in town. But we weren't surprised. After a Family Mart dinner we went for a short walk in the evening after the crowds thinned out.

Night Street (Takayama) - Japan  2024

Monday Gull Blogging

Gulls, Japan Coast Guard Boat (Hakodate) - Japan  2024

Last of my Hokkaido gull photos.

Leaving Tokyo

God Bless Butter (Tokyo) - Japan  2024

Buildings from Train (Tokyo) - Japan  2024

From Tokyo to Takayama: first take a local train to Tokyo Station, then wander around looking at all the food vendors to find a suitable bento box for the train to Nagoya. 

Then scramble to board the shinkansen, the track for which we somehow couldn't find until the last moment. Highlight of the train ride: a hazy view of Mt. Fuji from the seats on the right hand side.

Then get off at Nagoya for the transfer to Takayama.

Mt. Fuji - Japan  2024

Japan Culinary Adventure (47): Gyoza at Gyoza Sakaba Yoshi

Gyoza Sakaba Yoshi (Tokyo) - Japan  2024

Gyoza Sakaba Yoshi Menu (Tokyo) - Japan  2024

We had walked around this area back in 2016. From my notes that year: 

We check out, store luggage at the hotel, then walk over to visit the Koishikawa garden with Dan. Nice. Afterwards a stroll among the streets surrounding Suidobashi station. Lots of restaurants! Alas, we won't be able to try any of them. We need a longer stay!

So, we made it a point to return to the same restaurant district in 2024! Wow! I managed to locate where we had last seen all those restaurants; after wandering around a bit we spied a gyoza restaurant and decided to give it a try.

"At Gyoza Sakaba Yoshi, we offer a wide variety of gyoza and dishes made with homemade care. Our gyoza, made with Japanese pork, is served hot and fresh. Enjoy 22 different types, including fried and boiled options. We also have unique dishes like 'Spicy Beef Stew' made in authentic Sichuan style. With great course options available, relax in our modern and bright space, perfect for solo diners or group gatherings!"

This was certainly an out of the way place, but they had an English menu and a place for us to sit towards the back. We placed our order, I got a beer, and then we started to check out the atmosphere. A number of longish tables had been pushed together in order to accommodate a large group of raucous college-age students. Lots of jokes! And singing! And, unfortunately a number of them were smoking cigarettes. 

Our order arrived . . . actually pretty good! But we decided not to prolong our stay. (Cigarette smoke certainly hastened our departure.)

Gyozas (Tokyo) - Japan  2024

Gyoza Sakaba Customers (Tokyo) - Japan  2024

Shopping Expedition to Itoya

Itoya Entrance (Tokyo) - Japan  2024

Akihabara Station Ad (Tokyo) - Japan  2024

November 4th, 2024. Breakfast at Starbucks, then, at Margaret's request, a shopping expedition to Itoya. 

"Dating back to 1904,  Itoya is an institution like few others in Tokyo and one of the city’s most beautiful and well stocked stationary shops. The main branch, situated on Ginza’s busy main street, is spread over two buildings and 18 floors in total, offering anything from pens, paints, craft materials, canvases, paper, cards, travel gear, two cafes and even a greenhouse."

We took the Yamanote Line to the Yurakucho Station, passing through Akihabara, then, using Google Maps directions, walked through the Ginza's heavily crowded streets to finally reach Itoya. I guess as could be expected, Itoya was itself heavily crowded. But we were able to buy Margaret's readers for her, and had an unexpectedly pleasant lunch on the top floor.

Itoya Lunch (Tokyo) - Japan  2024

Evening Walk Over to Katsukichi

Suidobashi Station Train Passing Through - Japan  2024

That evening we walked under the Suidobashi Station train tracks for a dinner at Katsukichi.

"Patronised by literary greats like Yasunari Kawabata and Yukio Mishima, Suidobashi's Katsukichi has remained largely the same since first opening its doors in 1962. The heavy-set wooden interior evokes memories of days gone by, but the menu has managed to hang with the times: fried in corn and sesame oil, the tonkatsu is made with fine, freshly sourced meat and feels about as light as a deep-fried dish possibly can be."

Very nice!

Katsukichi Interior (Tokyo) - Japan  2024

Katsukichi Meal (Tokyo) - Japan  2024

Walking from Kurashow to Takataki Station

Leaves, Ferns (Chiba) - Japan  2024

Trees, Leaves (Chiba) - Japan  2024

We walked back to the train station after our lunch at Kurashow past some lush, overgrown areas. The station was so tiny that I had to ask for directions at the local 7-11; once there I did some cat viewing and Hali was able to talk with some of the locals using Jim's Pocketalk. 

Walking Back (Chiba) - Japan  2024

Monday Cat Blogging

Cat (Chiba) - Japan  2024

Cat (Chiba) - Japan  2024

On Tuesday this week! 

This is the second cat I saw in the Takataki Station area. This one had a very purposeful destination in mind.

Cat (Chiba) - Japan  2024

Shawna's Birthday!

Shawna on Couch (Fairfax) - Marin County  1982

Wow!

Kurashow Lunch - 2

Kurashow Owners (Chiba) - Japan  2024

Gourds, Kurashow (Chiba) - Japan  2024

Once again, we had a delectable dining experience at Kurashow. The restaurant's new location feels airy and spacious in spite of its actual (small) size. Lots of artistic touches as well!

OK, so the lady's name is Yoko, but somehow I still haven't managed to find out the chef's name. 

Maybe someone can research that for me.

Kurashow Lunch - 1

Kurashow Lunch (Chiba) - Japan  2024

Beer at Kurashow (Chiba) - Japan  2024

We'd eaten before at Kurashow, but that was when the restaurant was in Otaki. Of course we wanted to dine there again, but now they've relocated to a different area in Chiba. Getting there by train was just a little convoluted! It certainly helped that Yoko met us at Takataki Station and gave us a ride over to the restaurant.

As usual, the lunch was quite tasty, plus Mike was able to sample a local beer!