October 14, 2008: Go down a narrow street lined with restaurants, then turn right into an even narrower alley. Then duck through the noren and inquire if this is the correct spot.
Yes it is. Or, that is to say, yes it was. We had arrived at Ajihana, a very small restaurant in Kyoto featuring kaiseki-style meals. Very small: two tables and a counter. There were two businessmen at the counter; the four of us were the only other diners. Behind the counter was the chef and one apprentice.
Kaiseki refers to a specific Japanese multicourse meal with no set menu. The chef and Maz had a longish discussion concerning what kind of food was acceptable to our gaijin tastes. After being reassured that anything he made would be acceptable, the courses began to arrive.
Some of the items served (in small individual plates, the compositions jewel-like in their perfection):
—Sashimi.
—Anago (eel) wrapped in kelp. Braised to perfection.
—Miso glazed cod.
—Local fresh vegetables served tempura style.
—A crispy glutinous dish—like nothing we’ve had before.
—Pickled vegetables.
Served with beer, tea and sake.
During the meal, Maz and the chef discussed various culinary topics, including the use of avocados in California sushi rolls (much scoffing by the chef.)
Very special meal. And, it was Mike’s birthday!
[Blog Note: For this particular meal I’ve had to rely on others’ memories of the event, so it’s taken me a while to get some of the details of the meal straight. Strictly speaking, in terms of chronology, this should really be Culinary Adventure #2, instead of Sumiyoshiya.]
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Photos: Night Street—Kyoto, 2008; Ajihana Exterior—Kyoto, 2008; Chef & Apprentice, Ajihana—Kyoto, 2008
Photo by Maz: Tempura Dish, Ajihana (Mike pouring beer in background)—Kyoto, 2008
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